Dos Semanas y Todo Está Bien

23 09 2015

Lot’s of things happening.  Let’s see if we can hammer out some material:

Last week D-Rock and I went to Guatapé.  If you’re following her on Instagram (@darakruv, @dara.the.explara)  you’ll have seen some stunning pictures from the top of the rock, La Piedra, which was probably (but maybe not) the highlight of our trek.  Other highlights included a tranquil day of sunning and swimming at a watering hole, a long conversation on an over-crowded bus with a very inebriated, but oh-so-lovable Colombiano, and a few hours of paintball in the ruins of one of Pablo Escobar’s “fincas.”  Needless to say, the trip deserves it’s own post. note from the editor: I’ll get right on it *ahem*…

Friday marked our two week anniversary in Medellín (“Jake you remembered!!!”).  Classes have been great so far and I am very impressed with the organization and quality of the program, so no complaints there.  Unfortunately, things didn’t work out quite as well with our homestay family.  It was lovely to practice Spanish with the fam and they were incredibly gracious and hospitable.  The only issue was the cooking, which was consistently inedible.  By the middle of the first week, I had convinced our host that, “We are very small humans and don’t need to eat a lot.”  This at least reduced the amount of food we had to intersperse betwixt the rice.  One night Dara grabbed a chunk of over-salted fish in her hand, dashed to the trash can, and slam dunked it before anyone was aware.  So with a heavy heart and empty stomach, we decided to move into a new spot.  Only our third in 18 days, not too shabby.  Dara and I are sharing the apartment with a friend of a friend and the situation could not be better.  It’s very close to our first apartment, which is a 5 minute walk from our school.  And we now have two cats!!!!11!

I’d be lying if I said I was completely thrilled about these precocious little scamps.  I can’t remember the last time I so seamlessly drifted between cooing affection and mindless rage (“FRANK IF YOU DON;T GET OFF THE COUNTER I’M GOING TO TOSS YOU OUT THE F@&%ING WINDOW”).  Must’ve been during my hardcore Halo days (Lo Tres anyone?) And there’s cat hair.  Everywhere.  DEAR GOD IT’S EVERYWHERE.

In other news, I think my hubris regarding the weather must have ruffled some feathers upstairs because the big guy has delivered some truly impressive storms over the last week or so.  That’s what I get for being cocky.  There have been some incredible lightning storms but thankfully they usually give up in a few hours.

But I digress.

The beauty of our program is that you can start a new level every single Monday, so Dara and I decided to take a week off of class to review, reflect and explore.  Because why go on a life changing excursion if you’re not going to sojourn around a bit?

Yesterday, we chose a place called Parque Arvi.  Parque Arvi is one of the largest parks in Colombia, and the largest of it’s kind.  People have been raving about it so we figured it’s about time to check it out.  Ok full disclosure, we actually had planned to go on Monday and put together this great plan, went to bed early and woke up extra early to beat the traffic, only to realize it’s closed on Mondays.  C’est la vie.  Or así es la vida I guess.  So we decided to go yesterday.  Same plan, different day.  Woke up extra early, packed lunch (Dara made sammiches with the normal amount of lettuce ffs), and hit the streets.

Getting there is a trip. You have to take the metro and two cable cars to get there which takes some time but affords some very pleasing sights.  The first leg of the cable car passes over barrios that blanket the mountain side.  Looking down you can see whole neighborhoods- the squeals of kids playing in the street, scores of people playing pick-up soccer, locals going about their day.  As you ascend, the neighborhoods become more and more remote, slowly receding to reveal some scattered farms and eventually nothing but forest.  Some people muse that the journey may actually be better than the actual park.

Which may have been the case for us… Do to some extenuating circumstances, our trip had to be amended a few times.  Our master plan depended on the park’s bike share program, which was closed.  So a friendly guide told us to check out the lake in the north, where we could rent a paddle boat and relax.  But of course, that was over an hour away and buses weren’t running… so we settled for Aventura!  Which sounded like a bast, with a ropes course, zip lines, canopy tours, etc.  Of course when we arrived, there were 1000+ screaming kids between 10-15.

I will give the kids some credit, the are hilarious with their cat calling.  Their method requires shouting whatever English they know at you, so I always get, “HELLO!  My name it! MY NAME IS!!!”  I respond in kind.

Needless to say we found a few nature walks and made the best of it.  There is certainly another trip here in our future.

And speaking of exploring, we leave in an hour for the Pacific coast, a town called Bahiá Solano.  More to come when I return.

Word of the day:  Chévere.  Colombianos way of saying “cool,” or “that is so dope.”





WE HERE

8 09 2015

Hola desde Medellín, amigos!

My inaugural post from Colombia will be short and sweet.   The desire to write something profound and engaging has hindered my posting consistency in the past, so I’m actively striving for quantity over quality.  Expect some typos.

Dara found us an awesome room on Airbnb to spend our first few days before we move in with our homestay family.  It’s in El Poblado, the trendy section of the city which includes Parque Lleras.  Check out this eye sore we’ve been forced to look at daily:

Photo cred to Dara, goddamn that's a hot view

Photo cred to Dara; goddamn that’s a hot view.  Looking out of our apartment in El Poblado, Medellín.

Holy Jeebus I can get used to this weather.  It’s been gorgeous so far, SIMPLY GAW-JUSS; 80’s all day and 70’s all night. And of course, every weather site on the interwebs calls for daily rain and temperatures dropping into the 50’s… WHAT THE HELL INTERNET, I TRUSTED YOU.  I think this future snowbird (jewbird??) just found his new retirement destination.  Wait a minute, does talking about your retirement necessitate having a job?  If only daydreaming contributed to my 401k…

But this city has much more to offer than just remarkable vistas and beautiful weather.  Each Colombian we’ve encountered has been incredibly friendly, which has made our assimilation very smooth.  Everyone has been eager to converse, learn about us, and help out when necessary.  A cab driver suggested we walk somewhere and made sure we knew where we were going before letting us leave.  Strangers give recommendations in addition to directions.  Every interaction is followed with “con gusto.”  The beauty and generosity of this city is readily apparent, it’s hard to believe that just a few years ago it would have been unthinkable to visit.

Also it’s very affordable and teams of people walk through Parque Lleras on Saturday handing out free shots. ¡VAMOS COLOMBIA!

Yesterday Dara and I started our classes and moved in with our homestay family:

Marcella, Marth and Santiago

Marcella, Martha and Santiago

I am sure the homestay will provide no shortage of material, but I’ll save that for the next entry.  I’ll leave you with our new view:

Photo cred to Dara, view from our new apartment in Envigado.

Photo cred to Dara, view from our new apartment in Envigado.

Stay tuned for more of your favorite adult, contemporary jams.  Smooth jazz, CD 101.9.

Word(s) of the day: ¿Que mas? – “What’s good?” Derived from the vernacular of Señor Elliot Steinbaum, when said to locals with the proper accent, they will start speaking to you at an incomprehensible speed.  Typically followed by nodding my head “sí” and smiling.





Did you know…

21 03 2011

…that  Salvador Dali and a Disney studio artist named John Hench collaborated on a project together?  It’s an animated short they put together in the 40’s but wasn’t released until 2003. The point of it was to express surrealism, and its pretty awesome IMO.





The Birth of sChool: My end with (Shanghai) Jazz

12 03 2011

I get that the title is a bit misleading because its about the end of my semester, but this was the catchiest thing I could come up with so cut me some slack…

My ninja intuition tells me that a lot of people are interested in how I finished out my semester in Shanghai before relocating to Beijing.  While my experience was genuinely life changing, it was not all sunshine and butterflies.  Despite all I learned, I would definitely classify my closing weeks working for Shanghai Jazz English Training Institute as tumultuous.  Relations between my boss/Chinese coworkers and I had become somewhat strained, which, regretfully, was manifested in my going through the motions, eager to finish my present venture and move on to brighter pastures.

~*(Disclaimer: This post contains a letter I wrote to the new teachers/my previous employer (but never sent), and it is long as.  It is a detailed account of everything that I despised about my job and I wrote it when I was furious with my boss.  As a result, it is not very fluid and often a little hard to follow, especially because I’m pretty sure I forgot who I intended to read it.  I go in and out of tenses often and do other shiz that will drive English majors crazy, but deal, it was written with passion.  While it was a brilliant way to vent, I eventually got what I was after ($$$) and decided not to send it to anyone.  In retrospect, it is a great read for anyone who is remotely interested in working in China or just curious about some of the stuff I dealt with. Phew.)*~

Most of this discomfort stemmed from a lack of communication, but after 5 months of this I had become pretty jaded.  Jazz felt that it fell on my shoulders to adjust my demeanor to that of a Chinese person- not question anything and simply go along with everything regardless of my own thoughts, beliefs and past experiences (such is the Chinese way).  While I am all for cultural immersion, I felt that a company who dealt specifically with westerners for the last 15 years should at least acknowledge our differences and try to be more understanding, especially when it pertained to my students’ education.

I had initially written a long winded lead-in for this story but deleted it in the interest of brevity.  To make a long story short, my boss withheld my final paycheck from me for two days while I completed menial tasks that she claimed were necessary.  After completing these tasks, my boss informed me that the travel stipend I had been promised (but stupidly enough, not gotten in writing) would be withheld.  It was only the equivalent of about $150, but I was irate at this sheisty maneuver after all I had put up with.

One of the final “projects” that I was supposed to complete in order to receive my last paycheck was a letter to the incoming teachers, offering advice and sharing my experience.  As soon as I got the news that I would not be receiving my stipend, I proceeded to sit down and hammer out the following passage (i.e. bitter tirade).

Before you move on to the letter I really have to stress what an unbelievably positive experience this was overall (hence my return to China).  Throughout the term I was able to learn the basics of teaching (i.e. how to write lesson plans and entertain children in an educational way for up to 90 minutes), got experience working with a Chinese company, lived and operated alone and on my own terms (a.k.a. begrudgingly paid my own bills), and the whole shebang culminated in my developing a fondness for not only my rittle dumprings, but also children in general.  My most significant takeaway over the 5+ months, however, was the insight I gained into the upbringing of Chinese children and therefore into Chinese culture in general.  I had a unique perspective that could only have been achieved as a teacher.

Here goes:

There is too much to say about my experience teaching for NewBeat Jazz English Training Institute and not enough time to properly articulate myself.  If I could offer one piece of advice to any brave soul embarking on the same journey that I have just completed, it would sound something like “Be more flexible than Gumby and never wear your shoes in the house.”  That was pretty corny but cut me some slack, I just made it up (don’t worry if the shoe reference went over your head; it’ll make sense soon enough.)

What I’m trying to express is that you will undoubtedly be faced with moments that make you want to scream until every capillary in your face explodes or punch an airplane hangar full of babies, and it is best to embrace this notion before you even open a book on China.  Everything is done completely different here. Accept it now.  No matter how absurd it seems, or how bent out of shape you get, no amount of whining or complaining will affect the Chinese system.  By the end of the semester I was just chalking up these instances as GDCMs: “Goddamn China Moments.”  It’s when one of these situations arises that you must use more restraint than you ever have before and refrain from going berserk.  Writing off these daft scenarios as GDCMs was a way for me to cope with the absurdity of the situation without completely losing my mind, a la “serenity now,” for all you Seinfeld fans (we all know how that ends- *gulp*).  Towards the end of my stay, when something unpleasant happened to me out of the blue, I would chuckle to myself and think “Nowhere else in the world…”

Teaching kindergarten was a complex task for me to adjust to, as initially I was told that I would be teaching middle school.  It was not until the weekend preceding my job that I found out that I would be mentoring children mostly between the ages of two and six years old, a fact that perturbed me to say the least.  My initial reaction was frustration with the company I trusted to place me (CIEE), as well as anger at myself for having done so little research into a venture that I had thrust myself into, unbeknownst to the consequences.  I approached my boss, Touba, only one month in and informed her that I intended to quit.  After a brief discussion, it was agreed that I would stay on for the semester, rather than the full year that I had initially signed up for.  Looking back on it, I am absolutely resolute that I made the right decision.  I simply do not have the patience to be a kindergarten teacher, but I digress.

For the most part, your job here is very easy.  The NewBeat content is simple enough to follow and there is a certain amount of “customization” available if you choose to make the lessons your own.  I know I had to, or else the monotony of my day would’ve caused me to choke on my tongue and suffocate.  The saving graces for me were my mornings at Yi Shu, which thankfully I had every day.  I was able to really get to know these kids and develop strong relationships with the majority.  One comment I will make on this is to let yourself fall in love with these kids- it will make your job infinitely easier and very rewarding.  Despite any issues I had with my living and working situation in China, these kids made it all worthwhile.  I will even admit to getting choked up today when one of my six year olds, Debbie, upon realizing that she would never see me again, ran over to embrace me and cover my jacket with tears.

The Chinese facilitators are very understanding and friendly, as well as an indispensable resource.  Stephanie (in the beginning), Cissy, and Angela all were great helps throughout the semester.  Their vast knowledge of the curriculum as well as ability to communicate (and discipline) will surely come in handy.

This has truly been an unbelievable experience and I will cherish the memories forever.  That being said, there were a number of issues with Jazz specifically that could have made my stay more comfortable.

Organization:

My chief concerns are communication and organization.  I rarely felt fully informed and was often thrown into situations in which I had to figure things out by myself.  One example that comes to mind took place about two weeks back.  I was covering a former colleague’s class (she couldn’t handle the job and quit a month early) and needed to know what classes I would be teaching.  I called a facilitator, who promptly informed me which classrooms the classes would take place in.  When I asked which floors the classes were on (there were 3 floors in this particular school), she told me that she did not know.  I proceeded to call another facilitator, who told me which floors she believed they were on, but was not positive.  Feeling anxious, I called Touba and asked if she could contact someone at the school to guide me, which she did pleasantly.  I waited for a time in the lobby, but as my class drew near and my patience thin I decided to take matters into my own hands.  I wandered around the floors, peering into windows for about 10 minutes until a Chinese teacher noticed the lost wai guo ren (a.k.a. random white dude) and directed me to where I should be.  I strolled into class 5 minutes late only to discover that I had been given the wrong time, and was actually 20 minutes early.  Another GDCM.

Transportation:

My taking issue with the organizational deficiencies of the, er- Jazz organization, was a running theme throughout my stay here.  Another strong issue was transportation.  Jazz provided a van to take me to school each morning, which was fairly convenient.  I would walk about 15 minutes each morning to the corner of PuBei lu and GuiLin lu, where I convened with my fellow Yi Shu teachers and was whisked away by James (who is the MAN by the way).  The problem lied in what happened afterward.  The van would pick us up after school and take us to Jazz, where we could have lunch and relax until 2 pm, at which point James and his magic bus would take us to our afternoon classes.  The issue was that it wasted a huge amount of time throughout the day.  I finished class at 10:45 and waited until 11 or so to be picked up.  We arrived at Jazz around 11:20 and waited until 12 for lunch.  After lunch ended, we sat around and waited until 2 before we left for afternoon classes that didn’t start until 2:40.  It was about 3 hours per day that was just wasted on the internet.  Many days I did indeed use my office hours productively, but as we were not being paid for this time in the office, I felt it was a grave injustice.  The options were submit to wasting this valuable personal time, or spend over 50 kuai a day on 45 minutes taxi rides.

Curriculum:

While the unstructured office atmosphere was bothersome, it did not come close to the sheer anger and disbelief I sometimes felt in regard to the NewBeat Jazz curriculum.  To put it simply, it needs a vast overhaul for many reasons.  While there is some continuity between the books, it doesn’t focus on aspects of the English language that promote communication, and often times the content was flat out bizarre or wrong.

The fundamental issue is that Jazz puts so much weight on developing EQ that it forgets that these children are TWO TO SIX YEAR OLDS.  These kids barely understand every 10th word I say- how in God’s name am I supposed to convey the sentiment that all countries need to work together and collaborate in order to preserve this green earth?  Should I dumb it down and start by explaining how according to Thomas Friedman we now belong to a global community, chiefly due to globalization, and the world is flattening in a way that could not have been achieved only 10 years ago because of a lack of technology?  Should I touch on the basics of foreign policy or delve into how much the USA is in debt to China?  We are told in the beginning of the semester that along with the English lessons, we should be absolutely sure to include this peripheral learning, which is designed to mold these students into model world citizens, not just fluent English speakers.  I end up wasting an exorbitant amount of time explaining this concept. First to the children, which obviously falls on deaf ears, and then to their teachers, who often have just as much trouble understanding what I’m trying to say.  The kicker is that even if the teachers eventually understand the point I’m trying to get across, they explain everything in Chinese!  This entire circus act not only wastes time, but is completely counterproductive, all because this outlook is “indispensable to the NewBeat curriculum.”

While this in and of itself was enough to drive me crazy, I was often able to spice up my lessons as I saw fit.  I desperately tried to include exercises that would focus solely on these kids’ oral competency, using the NewBeat curriculum as scaffolding rather than brick and mortar.  This was met with opposition and fierce resistance by my Jazz facilitators and would end up causing the most trials and tribulations for me.  As far as I’m concerned, I am an expert at speaking English.  I was brought in as an “English Speaking Specialist,” and while I enjoyed my time in Shanghai, I took this role very seriously.  When I have people who do not speak English as a first language tweaking my lesson because it “doesn’t fit the prototype,” I go bonkers.

During class a few weeks ago, I was told that I should stop teaching “unit 11” because this week I was supposed to teach “unit 12.”  It was a Monday.  The following scene took place (this dialogue is paraphrased):

Facilitator: “Um, Jake, you are teaching unit 11. This week is unit 12.  Please teach unit 12.”

Me: “My kids don’t really know unit 11 yet, so I thought I would make sure they have a good grasp before we continue.”

Facilitator: “Ok, but it’s not unit 12.  You must teach unit 12.”

Me: “I think it would be better for my kids to know all of unit 11 as opposed to half of unit 11 and half of unit 12.  Don’t you agree?  I have 4 more days to teach unit 12 anyway.”

Facilitator: “Yes. But you must teach unit 12 now, so maybe teach that instead.”

(This went back and forth for what seemed like an eternity unitl…)

Me: “You really want these kids to learn unit 12? (I proceed to sit down). Go.  Teach unit 12.”

Facilitator: “Gah! But it’s your class!”

Me: “Then sit down, shut up, and let me teach my class as I see fit!”

Keep in mind that all this happened while class was going on.  The kids were 3 years old and couldn’t possibly grasp what was going on, but it was still an experience that shocks me to this day.  My facilitator could not stop for one second to process what I was trying to accomplish.  All she understood was that I was drawing outside of the lines and as far as she was concerned it was unacceptable.

The company’s unwillingness to diverge from the curriculum even a smidge was disheartening.  This was compounded by the fact that the facilitators were often contradictory by straying from the books themselves.  One example was how much of an emphasis they placed on dance moves.  Writing it now seems ridiculous, but I was stopped on several occasions (DURING a class, not before or after) and told by a facilitator that my dance moves weren’t correct.  Despite this unwelcome intrusion, these same facilitators often demonstrated completely different dance moves when showing us how to perform them at group meetings.  The mere fact that a few facilitators interrupted my classes on multiple occasions rather than wait until they commenced is bafflingly unprofessional.

Money:

I assume that money is a problem everywhere for everyone, but it was routinely an issue for most employees here.  We were supposed to receive a 150 kuai stipend to pay our bills (which was not nearly enough- my internet alone was 160 kuai per month, but that’s a different issue entirely), but rather than just give us the money, we had to pay our bills, turn them in, and then receive the money.  This seems like a simple enough task, except for the fact that bills here come whenever they feel like it.  Additionally, Jazz wouldn’t pay out the bill stipend until every single employee had turned in their bills.  This resulted in some peeved Jazzers waiting patiently for their coworkers, who had not paid due to their blasé life style (guilty) or just had not received their bills yet.

I know what I’m about to talk about is a touchy subject, but I cannot help but go into it.  We did not get paid nearly enough.  To provide full disclosure, I will admit that I knew exactly how much money I would be making when I signed up with CIEE.  Regardless of this, I had no idea how that money would translate to the cost of living here.  I don’t know if CIEE got a cut or if we were just slighted because we didn’t know any better, but I know for a fact that the employees who didn’t come through CIEE got substantially more than those who did.  I talked to numerous contacts in CIEE that were placed in tier 2 or 3 cities in China who got paid more than we did, and their daily cost of life was a fraction of what ours was.  What was most infuriating, though, was that I met so many English teachers during my stay in Shanghai and every single one made at least double what I did.  I was even offered a job as a private tutor very early in the semester that would have paid substantially more than what I had received, but I did not have the heart to stab neither Jazz nor my newly inherited children in the backs.

This started off as advice and quickly turned into a rant, and for that I apologize.  I have thought about all of these things for so long, and while I have talked about them with my colleagues on numerous occasions, it feels good to get it down in writing.  My basic issue was acclimating to the “intricacies” of Chinese office conduct, which was not nearly as structured as I am used to.  As such, I conducted myself accordingly.  The lack of professionalism on one side caused me to shirk some responsibilities, and looking back I regret not being the bigger man in most of these situations and just letting it slide.  Perhaps if I had been more understanding and less pugnacious my time teaching would have gone more smoothly.

Despite these issues, however, I heard not a single complaint concerning my teaching from the schools I worked for, and if they said anything negative it was kept from me.  The only feedback I received from Touba was overwhelmingly positive, and I asked her on numerous occasions whether anything had changed.  The lovely Natalie Levy often critiqued my teaching methods, and I happily accepted her criticisms and attempted to improve.  The Chinese teachers who worked by my side (not to be confused with the facilitators) all seemed very pleased with me when I entered and exited my classes, and my kids loved when I showed up.  I even taught a few classes to start slow clap chants for me when I entered the room, “jake. Jake. Jake! JAKE! JAKE! JAKE!”  I legitimately have developed a fondness for young children that I did not possess 6 months ago, and I really did shed a tear when Debbie told me in Chinese that she would miss me.

As I have stated, there have been many peaks and valleys throughout this semester. While it may seem like I walked along a craggy path, the majority of my tenure in China has been overwhelmingly positive.  Most of the people I work with are kind, loving and light-hearted people.  It is the end of an era here and I will always look back on my time here fondly.





My favorite part of any day: The “White Guy What Up”

2 03 2011

As far as most of my friends and family are concerned, I am the lone white person in this country of 1.4 billion Chinese people.  While it goes without saying that the vast majority of people I encounter on a given day are predominantly Chinese, I see my fair share of White, Black and Hispanic people throughout my travels.  SIDE NOTE: Also all sorts of Asian people who aren’t Chinese, but get really offended when I ask.  Korean, Malaysian, Japanese, Thai, Vietnamese, Mauritian, and everywhere in between.  I’m sorry I can’t tell the difference between you guys, it’s not easy.

Anyway, I attend a school that specializes in teaching wai guo ren (foreigners) Mandarin, and therefore I see westerners all the time while on campus.  When I venture deep into the heart of Beijing, however, it is a whole different bowl of mystery meat.  This leads me to one of my favorite, yet mostly unspoken practices amongst white people in China.  I call it the “White Guy What Up,” and any person who has spent an extended period of time abroad knows exactly what I’m talking about.  It’s a widely practice, used with any native English speaker regardless of color, sex or creed- but “White Guy What Up” just flows.  The WGWU is a seemingly meaningless glance to the untrained eye, yet when used properly, one can derive unbelievable confidence and reassurance that they’re on the right path.

I’ll set the scene for you:  Today I visited a typical 12-story-uber-mega-super-happy-fun-time market looking for a three-ring binder and some other supplies.  After searching each row meticulously, I was unsuccessful.  Left with no other choice, I was forced to ask a clerk using my nearly non-existent Mandarin, a frequently disappointing endeavor.  I was exhausted from the daily toil and becoming increasingly more irritable as the employee tried desperately to guess what item I was looking for through an impromptu game of charades.  Just as I was about to lose my shiz and explode, out of the corner of my eye I caught a pretty, white girl in her mid-twenties walking by.  I barely got a glimpse of her smirking face, but it was enough.  I gave her a chuckle, she gave me a giggle, and soon all my animosity had melted away.  I walked away without my binder, but am fairly certain that I was not the first lao wai to lose this battle.

Before rolling back the tape I need to stress how high the frequency of interactions like the one I just described is.  It’s a lot, trust me.  I am learning Mandarin, but the road is long and lonely.  Knowing the word or phrase in Chinese and being able to convey this thought to a native Chinese speaker are entirely different stories.  After a while you just want to say “eff it” and give up on whatever you’re doing.  If you’re lucky, like I was today, that’s when a WGWU kicks in.

Let’s go back to the story: I was about to have a brain aneurysm and collapse right there in the store.  My face was turning red and if I were to pinch the bridge of my nose any harder my schnoz would have materialized into nothingness.  At that precise moment, I had a moment with my angel.  Did you see what happened there?  If you blinked, you missed it.  Her meaningful gesture was not a derisive put down, but a vote of confidence.  It was as if she pasted a huge “Rosie the Riveter” poster right on top of the clerks face. Her stifled laughter was an acknowledgment of not only the predicament I was in, but also  all the BS that we put up with in general.  Between the crazy customs/rules in this country and the language barrier (more like language Great Wall), its surprising I get anything done.

Her laughter allowed me to look at myself and think, “What a unique debacle.  I guarantee not a single friend in the US went through this today.”  Living here has made these daily occurrences quite common.  It is easy to take this opportunity for granted, and I often forget how lucky I am to be here.  Every day I have these truly remarkable experiences, and if the trade off is some frustration at the check out line, so be it.  Millions of people would do anything to be in the situation I’m in and I am in no rush to trade.  Plus, if I were at home I would be dealing with even more infuriating people, like the guys who work at Verizon or any bank.  And that’s just incompetence.

The true beauty of the WGWU lies in its simplicity.  If you think this story has anything to do with the fact that the Heroine was a pretty young woman, you are completely missing the point of the WGWU.  It’s basically saying, “Oh what up, I’m a white person in China.  You too? Sweet, good luck with your ish.”  It was used therapeutically in this instance, but the WGWU is normally a very casual happening.  I throw out WGWUs all over the place- while crossing the street, across crowded restaurants, heading to class, etc.  All it takes is a head nod and a smile.  Its a great unifier amongst those traveling through this strange land.  No matter where you came from or where you’re going, two westerners can share the common bond that goes along with being here.

Meeting people here is easier than finding drugs at a Phish concert.  All you do is go up to someone and say, “Hey, what brings you to China?”  They may be Italian, Spanish, German, etc., it doesn’t matter.  We share a deep, intimate connection that is fashioned by the mindset it took to travel completely across the globe for whatever reason.  I’ve met some people doing very strange things in China- but despite their quest, the fact that someone else is going through the exact same scenarios that I am on a daily basis is truly comforting.





Sucs vs. China: Round 2… FIGHT

24 02 2011

Welp, I’m back in China and it feels great.  My flight was non-stop this time and I even had the middle seat free so I could really stretch out.  It was about as comfortable as a 14 hour flight can possibly be (read: not comfortable at all).

I was greeted by the famed fog of Beijing and it was *almost* comforting.  I swear the smog oppresses the sun here worse than the Egyptians did the Israelites (or the Egyptian government did their people?  Is that still topical?).

I’ve been here two days and its safe to say the the red tape and bureaucratic BS that I experienced in Shanghai is alive and well in the nation’s capitol city.  Yesterday I tried to pick up my student card after I registered for classes.  After waiting in line for 20 minutes, I approached the woman running the show and she explained to me that it would not be ready until today.  I went to the office today and explained my desire for a new card to the same woman, being sure to reintroduce myself (as all of us laowais look the same to chinee peeps), and it was as if I was asking for her liver.  She shot me a look so dirty I felt the need to bathe in Purell.  Needless to say, I left the office sans card.  I’ll go mingtian and hope the third times a charm.

I’m off to buy a bike and explore the city.  More updates as I settle in.

Zai Jian bitches

Sucs

p.s. – (I still love parentheses)

 





Easy as Yi Er San…

25 09 2010

Ok. I think it’s understood at this point that I’m no good at updating this regularly so Ill refrain from my usual sob story.  That being said I have another in the works so hopefully I’ll fire off another soon.

Through my first three looong weeks of teaching (sweet bejeezus, I’ve been here a month), I have developed a deep appreciation and admiration for any and all kindergarten/elementary teachers. Having seen what these kids can do, I can’t believe there aren’t more stories about teachers throwing kids out windows. I have never been hit, hugged, gotten spit on, kissed, and groped so much in my life. I feel like Al Gores personal masseuse (Bam! Zing! Don’t worry, I’m here all year).

It has only been a short period of time, but already the majority of my colleagues have some sort of ailment, and about 30% have had to miss work. I myself have managed to stay relatively healthy, save for one killer sore throat. I’ve been popping lozenges like a middle schooler does pimples. Clearly the mere act of trying to speak over about 40 squealing 3-7 year olds has taken its toll on me. Every day I wake up and feel like I smoked a pack of Marlboro Reds the previous evening, which is not a good feeling. That being said, I’m proud to say that suffering from a torched throat has actually allowed me to master the art of teaching a class without speaking at all. It involves a lot of pantomiming and gesturing, but I can usually get my point across and the kids pick up on my intentions rather quickly.

I teach 11 classes throughout the week, which vary in age. There are two classes of 3 year olds, two classes of 4-5 year olds, 6 classes of 6-7 year olds, and one special class of 8-11 year olds. The special class is comprised of 12 kids whose parents enrolled them in this supplemental class, so they are all very smart and at least somewhat motivated to learn English. It is the last class I teach on Friday and a really great way to close out the week. I have had many interesting experiences thus far and can safely say that I have never washed my hands so frequently in so brief a period.

Teaching young children, especially my 3 year olds, is a very messy job. I have never felt so loved and abused at the same time. The kids love nothing more than touching me, which usually occurs immediately after they wipe off drool or snot with their hands/put their hands down their pants/pee/crap themselves/etc. When not covering me in bodily fluids, they enjoy grabbing onto any part of me that they can (usually my hair, or legs so I cannot walk) or pummeling me with their fists of “love.” It is quite like my experiences dabbling in fratlife, and I often feel waves of nostalgia while cleaning up/fending off attacks. Like I said, messy.

Speaking of said mess, I recently had a little girl drop a deuce on her seat during class. Just let that marinate for a moment. I noticed said girl standing over the chair with her back to me, observing the present she had just left. Annoyed that she had ignored my multiple requests to have a seat, I walked over to force her into the chair. I did not realize what had just occurred until I was front and center, and all the students were pointing and giggling. Horrified, I focused on picking up kids 3 at a time and clearing the area before gesturing to the Chinese teachers that this was not my jurisdiction. Another “highlight” of the same 3-yr-old class is one little girl who literally has not stopped crying for three weeks, and I kid you not. Every second of every class for three weeks she has cried. It doesn’t seem humanly possible, and at times I am legitimately worried that she will suffocate and drop dead. After I suffer through about 10 minutes of this, I beg a Chinese teacher to take her out of the class… which they do for about a minute before returning her to my lesson so she can commence the Bellagio fountain show.

Despite these small hiccups, I have discovered the way to a 3 year olds heart: Stickers and songs. When the kids are restless or wont pay attention, I invoke one of these powerful tools.  My first tactic to attain peace is to offer them stickers if they shut the hell up. Stickers are crack for three year olds, and I might as well be dangling a brand new puppy in their faces.  While they go bonkers for stickers, however, sometimes they still wont be quiet. When this happens, I put on a CD and let them dance around for a while. After about 4 dances they get tired while I save some energy.  Both are effective and alleviate some stress.

While it has been difficult, teaching young ones has definitely been an experience. I learn more about dealing with children every day, which I guess is important, and sometimes I feel like I am influencing their lives. I’ve taught my kids to say “Peace out homie” and “Peace up, A-town down,” so if I ever figure out how to post videos to this blog I’ll record it and share. That’s all I have for now, more on teaching in the next few days.

Sucs





Chinee Foo and Other Musings

6 09 2010

Hello, faithful readers.  I thank you for joining me on another reflection of my exploits.  ***Disclaimer: all Chinese contained in this post is completely suspect and reproduced solely through my supposed understanding of its pronunciation.  The words are most likely wrong, please don’t hold it against me (hopefully Mandarin lessons begin next week).

Not much has changed since we last spoke, except that I started my job today.  More on that later though.

I’ve graduated from eating rice and noodles every day for breakfast to not eating breakfast at all… pretty sure I’m ready to go back to my carb crunching habits of last week.  Every now and then I grab an eggbread (which is exactly what it sounds like) or a Chinese donut.  You can get this grub from one of thousand vendors that occupy every corner.  Each place had a different variation of this fried dough.  Some are coated in sugar, while others are filled with spiced potato, chopped meats, carrots and cabbage and other goodies.  All are delicious and every time I find new one, I try it whether or not I have just eaten a meal.

While we’re on the topic of food, it is troubling to say that I have developed an awfully debilitating love/hate relationship with a particular cuisine in this city.  I am especially fond of a dish known as “Chwar/Chwan” (the pronunciation depends on where you are in China).  Rather than a dish, It is very simply just grilled skewers of various vegetables and meats; some of which I have no clue as to what they are (crossing my fingers that I haven’t tried dog yet, but who knows).  It is Street Meat of the highest caliber.  I ask for it “laDe,” which means extra spicy.  The vendors who pay particular attention to this request quite literally bring tears to my eyes.  Seeing as I am not living in Sichuan, this heat is much stronger than I had previously imagined, and very much welcomed.  On the spectrum of cheap/delicious foods, this delicacy takes the cake.  Only making this munchie further enticing is the fact that these grills are open until 4 am.  So why am I troubled about this delight that is seemingly in the same food group as Manna?  Because it decimates my stomach like a screen hatch on a submarine.  I mean there is no relief- no matter how many tagamets, peptos, pepcids, rolaids and immodiums I take, I just have to wait out the pain.  What can I say, I’m a glutton for punishment.

Now I thought I had experienced the pinnacle of bad smells- but the heinous stink that I have encountered here has opened up a new category in that book.  That’s not to say that it always reeks here, but NYC’s worst moments on a scalding summer day in between trash pickups is like a glorious bouquet of roses compared to this.  My olfactory system wants to implode and suck my entire being into a singularity.  Woah Nellie!  I would assume that it has something to do with the fact that this place is like NYC except Times Square on every single block, as well as the matter of kids dropping trough and TCBing all over the street (look at my last post if that reference whizzed by you).

In another completely different tangent, I bought a bike the other day.  My buddy Shaun came with me on his bike and we rode about 8-10 miles back to our apartments.  The excursion was intense to say the least.  Traffic is wild and unpredictable here, so its fitting that noone wears a helmet and everyone careens blindly the opposite direction down one-way streets.  There were more than a few moments when I thought, “Holy crap this can’t be safe,” but was having too much fun to stop.  Also there were no other options for getting the bike home.  Needless to say, I will try to stick to parks and small streets from now on.

I have no idea how to transition into any of the following random thoughts/hilarious moments so I’m just gonna throw ’em out there:

* Cissy, an associate at work, gestures towards my hair and asks, “Um, Jacob, is it nature? Can I feel it?” Hellz yeah its natural, and naturally I obliged.

* I watched a Philippino cover band play at a bar, and it was legitimately the worst live performance I have ever seen.  It was a woman who had an awful voice and was backed by two guys.  One guy “played” the keyboard although every one of his parts was recorded, while the other guy “played” the bongos, but his tracks were pre-recorded as well.  It was just atrocious.  I’m very motivated to practice some songs and try to land a gig once my work schedule gets settled.

* On the topic of my schedule, my schools wont give me a legitimate time table to expect breaks.  If I decide to travel, there is no way I will be able to buy reasonably priced plane tickets because apparently I wont know when or how long my breaks are until two months or less before.  Very lame.  When we complained about this during orientation, our director basically responded, “Hey, tough luck, this is China, get used to it.”

* I was walking around my neighborhood with a friend when we stumbled upon a bar that was replaying last years super bowl.  Wanting a beer and feeling upset that I am essentially going to miss this entire upcoming season, we sat down and watched most of the game.  We were the only people in the bar even remotely paying attention to the game.

* Chinese convenience stores are the same as US ones in that they have a ton of unreasonably inedible foods.  In every single store like this, I have seen this bizarre tub of hard-boiled eggs with partially cracked shells in this black liquid, as well as something that can only be described as chicken feet on a stick.  No thanks.

I’m going to hold off on going into the details of my job seeing as I have only finished one day.  I am teaching 3-8 year olds; some are very cute, others I want to punt through a window.  More of that next post though.  As always, comments and advice is always appreciated. Love to all.

Zai Jian,

sucs





One Week in the Books: a.k.a. Orienting Myself in the Orient

1 09 2010

Sorry to all my current and prospective readers, I know this post is way overdue.  So far every day here has been jam packed with orientations, excursions and lesson planning (I am here to work, ya know).  My plans this evening were canceled on account of a Typhoon rolling through, so I’ll take this opportunity to recap the last few days.  Has it really only been 10 days since I left the states?  I feel as if I have been in this country for months (although my shoddy/nonexistent Mandarin does not reflect that feeling).

Shanghai is reminiscent of NYC or any other big metropolis, save for a few differences- some small, others massive.  For instance, Pizza Huts are fancy, sit down restaurants here.  You can enjoy a nice glass of Chianti or Cabernet while chowing down on the fine American cuisine.  I am happy to say that I have yet to indulge.  In fact, I made it a whole week without eating anything remotely American (I broke down two nights ago and had a cheeseburger- it was glorious), and have yet to use a fork.

The bigger differences are what make it difficult to get acclimated to living here.  Don’t get me wrong; life here is just fine and thus far this has been a great experience.  That being said, I found it impossible to finish my meal after watching a little girl pee and defecate on the floor in the middle of a crowded restaurant.  Apparently this is completely reasonable here, as very young children rarely wear diapers/underwear, and even when they wear pants, the bottoms are usually cut out.  I have seen parents holding their children over gutters, trashcans, and potted plants so they can “take care of their business.” Excuse me for a moment while I grab a pepto bismol.

The CIEE orientation was really a blast and I was very sad to see many of my new friends depart to their placements around China.  The CIEE staff here are some of the most accommodating, friendly people I have ever met.  They took us to an incredible all-you-can-eat Sichuan restaurant where I tried Yak (delicious), the Shanghai museum (underwhelming) and an impressive acrobatic show (I will upload a video as soon as I figure out how- any advice is appreciated).  The highlight was the time we spent at the Shanghai Expo. In fact I’ll go through the whole day because it was pretty amusing.

My day began at 7 am, when I was forced to visit a hospital to redo my physical with the 9 other Shanghai teachers.  [Side note:  Shanghai (maybe China in general, I’m not sure) is in the middle of its most severe heat wave ever.  The first three days were unbearably hot, sticky and moist.  Thankfully, the rain (typhoon) has cooled off the city considerably.  Also I just realized how much I love parentheses]

Anyway we got picked up by Touba, one of the heads of our teaching program.  She is a tiny, sweet, 60-something year old woman who is a laugh riot.  She had us pile into a pair of vans and we drove 15 minutes to a hospital.  When we arrived at the gate, the guards refused to let our vans into the parking lot and stated that we had to walk through.  This did not sit well with Touba or the other drivers.  After arguing for some time, Touba took it upon herself to exit the van and get in the face of the guard denying us.  Even on her tippytoes, Touba was at least 18 inches shorter than this guy, but that did not stop her from giving him a piece of her mind.  After negotiations failed, she resorted to smacking the guard on the head multiple times and then attempted to move the gate herself, but to no avail.  Like I said, laugh riot.

Eventually we just walked inside and got started with the physicals.  Each test had its own room and physician/nurse practitioner which was pretty entertaining, and made it almost like a game.  The highlight (or lowlight) was when I was getting an ultra-sound.  Yeah, who knew it was used on more than just pregnant women.  Anyway, I asked the nurse how everything looked, and she responded curtly, “You have fat liver!”  Guess it’s time to start cutting down on beverages…

After the hospital we met back up with the rest of the CIEE group at the expo.  Keeping in mind the fact that we could visit the Expo any time we wished, the Shanghai crew was pretty unenthusiastic about spending the next 7 hours or so in the oppressive heat and mostly set on leaving early.  While on our way out, we passed the Cuba pavilion and someone mentioned that there was a bar, so naturally we had to check it out.  The pavilion was literally a cigar shop and a bar, nothing else.  After a few beers, we noticed that the local Chinese were covertly snapping pictures of our group, so we decided to invite a few to take pictures with us.  What ensued can only be described as a feeding frenzy.  At one point we must have taken pictures with random Chinese people for  30 minutes straight.  I could not stop laughing as Chinese men threw their kids and wives into pictures and then dove headfirst between two girls in the group for their own snapshot.  The next day I tried asking a random woman if I could take a picture with her and she was ecstatic.  I turned to look at her a couple moments after I walked away and she was still glowing.  Its truly a phenomenal boost for your self esteem.

There is oh so much more to talk about but I don’t want to burn you guys out immediately.  I’ll try to post again before I start work on Monday so I can clear the slate before my first day of teaching English to 3-7 year olds (I am sure there will be tons to share after that).  I would love to hear any suggestions/comments/thoughts on my writing as I am new to this.  Let me know if you want to hear about something specific or whatnot.

Love to all.

Sucs





Movin’ on up to the Far East Side

21 08 2010

Well now, here we are.  Like many of my friends and peers, I suffer from strange delusions that people actually care about my insight and adventures.  To satisfy these sick urges, I think the only course of action is to try my hand at blogging.  I struggled mightily with naming this bad boy and am still not content, so expect a change.  Anyway here we go.

I leave for Shanghai in 8 hours and am starting to get really psyched about this whole experience.  Not much else to say right now, I just wanted to fire off a post before I don’t have internet for a while.

See you guys on the other side.

sucs